Side shot of RCR SL-C wired with the Infinitybox System

Race Car Replicas SL-C Steering Column Wiring

This blog post is going to give you the details for wiring the steering column connector on your Race Car Replicas Superlite Coupe.  Fran and his team at RCR have been engineering and manufacturing one of the highest performance and most complete kits to build super cars.  Their chassis are engineered to perfection, the body styling is top notch and they give you everything that you need to build you own masterpiece.

They include a General Motors steering column with each kit.  This post and wiring diagram are specific to the Oldsmobile column.  If you have the older Cadillac steering column with power tilt & telescoping, give our team a call for specifics on the wiring

There is a connector on the Oldsmobile column that interfaces with the multi-function turn signal stalk.  This has the signals for the parking lights, head lights, high-beams and turn signals.  The connections between the steering column connector and the inputs on your MASTERCELL are simple.  Here are the details.

First, you need to have a good way to make the connection between our MASTERCELL inputs and the wires going to the steering column.  You could cut off the connector on the column and splice these wires together.  We recommend a much easier way.  You can purchase the mating connector and terminals to make this connection.  You can purchase these components from Mouser.  These parts are made by Aptiv, formerly Delphi.  The part number for the connector is 12092248 and the terminals is 12092345.  You will need 9 terminals.

You will need to splice the MASTERCELL input wires for your grounds, turn signals, parking lights, head lights and high beams to these terminals and insert them into the corresponding cavities on the mating connector.  The cavity letters are molded into the plastic on the side of the connector.  For your grounds, you can use the black ground wires in the MASTERCELL input harness.  This list shows you which wire colors correspond to the different mating connector cavities.

Grounds- Black Wire- Cavities D, Q, X & Z

Right Turn Signal- Yellow/Red Wire- Cavity F

Left Turn Signal- Yellow/Black Wire- Cavity G

High-Beam- Blue/Red Wire- Cavity K

Head Light- White/Green Wire- Cavity L

Parking Lights- Blue/Black- Cavity R

This picture shows the wires from the MASTERCELL and their different cavity locations.

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to connect Infinitybox MASTERCELL inputs to steering column connector for Race Car Replicas SL-C

Picture of wiring diagram showing how to connect Infinitybox MASTERCELL inputs to steering column connector for Race Car Replicas SL-C

It is also important that you install a diode between the inputs for the head lights and high-beams.  This should be a 1N4001 diode which can be purchased from Amazon or any other on-line electronics store.  The orientation of this diode is very important.  The cathode or the stripe on the diode must be connected to the high-beam input going to the MASTERCELL.  This is the blue/red wire going into cavity K.  You can crimp the leads of this diode to the terminals with the MASTERCELL wires to make this easier.

That is all you need to know to connect your MASTERCELL input wires to your steering column connector for your Race Car Replicas SL-C.  You can download a PDF version of this wiring diagram by clicking this link.  If you have any questions, you can call our team directly at (847) 232-1991 or click here to contact us directly.

High-Beam Switch

We have the turn-signal switches, horn switch and 4-way switch wired to the IDIDIT steering column in this 1967 wiring project.  Our next step is to wire the high-beam switch.

You have several options to wire your high-beam switch.  The high-beams work just like any other output in the Infinitybox system.  There is a dedicated output on the front POWERCELL that is for the high-beams.  This output gets wired to both of the high-beam bulbs in the front of the car.  The other side of the bulbs connects to ground.

The MASTERCELL connects to the high-beam switch.  When the MASTERCELL input is grounded though the switch, the MASTERCELL sends a command to the front POWERCELL to turn on the high-beams.  Your high-beam switch can be a toggle switch on the dash, a motion on the turn signal stalk or even a push button on the floor.

In the case of this 1967 Mustang install, the customer chose to use our Alternating Headlight Toggle Option that is built into the 20-Circuit Kit.  Here’s how this works.  You connect the Alternating Headlight Toggle input in the MASTERCELL harness to one contact on a momentary button.  You ground the other side of the button.  When you press the button, you connect the MASTERCELL input to ground.

If you press and hold the momentary button with the headlights off, the MASTERCELL will tell the front POWERCELL to turn on the high-beams.  The high-beams will stay on as long as your finger is holding the button.  When you release the button, the high-beams will turn off.  You would use this as your flash-to-pass button.

If you press and release the momentary button with the headlights on, the MASTERCELL will tell the front POWERCELL to toggle between the headlights and high-beams.  It will turn the headlights off then turn the high-beams on.  If you press and release the momentary button again, the MASTERCELL will tell the front POWERCELL to turn the high-beams off and turn on the headlights.  This is a very simple and cool feature.

Our customer chose the Tilt Lever Momentary Switch 510168 option with their steering column.  This gives them a momentary button at the end of the turn-signal stalk.  This is a perfect way to control your high-beams.  Pressing the button with the headlights off gets you flash-to-pass.  Pressing and releasing the button with the headlights on, will control your high-beams.

IDIDIT has some very specific instructions for installing this Tilt Lever Momentary Switch to the column.  You can link to these instructions at this link.  The grey wire going to the momentary switch will connect to the Alternating Headlight Toggle input going to the MASTERCELL.  In our configuration, this is the green-red wire on the MASTERCELL A harness.  That is input 22.  Please refer to your configuration sheet since different configurations may have different wire assignments.

IDIDIT makes some good points in their instructions about grounding the tilt lever.  Be sure to follow their instructions carefully for installing this option.

Please contact us with questions about wiring your high-beam switch to our Infinitybox MASTERCELL.  Click this link to get in contact with a member of our technical support team.


In our last post, we hit the high-points of wiring the outputs on our Infinitybox POWERCELLs.  Over the next few posts, we are going to go into detail on wiring some of the specific loads in your car.  This post is going to talk about headlights.

Headlights are usually the easiest output to wire and we use them as an example when we’re helping guys wire their cars over the phone.  On the front POWERCELL, there is a dedicated output for the headlights.  Check your configuration sheet for the exact wire color.  This blog post will show you how to do this.  In the case of our 1967 Mustang project, the POWERCELL output wire for the headlights is the white wire.  This is output 5 on the B connector.

From the front POWERCELL, you are going to run the white output wire to your headlights.  It is usually easiest to run the wire to the closest headlight, then splice from there to go to the second headlight.  Essentially, you are wiring the two headlights in parallel.  You can use our Splice Saver Kit to make this connection easy and reliable.

In the previous post about wiring POWERCELL outputs, we talked about ways to connect wires together.  These options include butt-splicing, soldering and connectors.  You can built the splice between the two headlight bulbs in this splice.  This picture shows a simple schematic for wiring the two headlights off of a single POWERCELL output.

Picture of a simple schematic showing how to wire your headlights to the Infinitybox POWERCELL

Picture of a simple schematic showing how to wire your headlights to the Infinitybox POWERCELL

There are going to be two wires on each of your headlights.  One is the 12-volt power coming from the POWERCELL output.  The other is ground, which needs to be connected to the chassis.  If your high-beams are integrated into the same headlight housing, there may be multiple connections.  You need to consult the paperwork or instructions that came with your headlights.

If your headlights are incandescent bulbs, the orientation of the power input and ground wires do not matter.  The current will flow through the filament in the bulb in either direction.  If you headlights are HID or LED, the polarity will matter.  You need to consult the manual for the HID or LED headlight kit.

The standard headlight output on the front POWERCELL is designed for an incandescent bulb.  We can do things with a POWERCELL output that you can’t do with a relay.  Because we are using solid-state relays, we can do something called Pulse-Width Modulation.  That means that we can gradually ramp up the power to an output.

Incandescent bulbs have a high in-rush current.  When the bulbs are cool, the resistance of the filament is relatively low.  When you first turn on the bulb, it will draw a lot of current.  As the bulb and filament heat up, the resistance of the filament increases significantly, which limits the current to its steady-state draw.  This inrush current can be 4 to 10 times the steady state current.  You need to size you wire and the fuse to work with this inrush current.  We have done that for you in our choice of output harness wire.

We soft-start the standard headlight and high-beam outputs on the front POWERCELL.  This essentially smooths out the inrush, which causes less stress on the fuse, the wiring and the light bulb.  You get this feature automatically if you use the standard MASTERCELL input.

You can use this same soft-starting output for LED (Light Emitting Diode) headlight kits.  If you are using HID (High Intensity Discharge) headlights, you need to use a different input to the MASTERCELL.  There is a dedicated input to the MASTERCELL for HID headlights.  If you use this input, the headlight input turns on instantaneously without the soft starting.  We’ll talk more about MASTERCELL inputs in later posts.

While we’re at it, you are going to wire your high-beams exactly the same way as the headlights.  In the case of the configuration that we are using for this 1967 Mustang, the dark-blue wire from the front POWERCELL is for the high-beams.  This is output 7 on the A connector.  You are going to run the high-beam output from the POWERCELL to the first high-beam bulb then splice over to the second high-beam bulb.  Check the documentation that came with your bulbs for proper wiring.  The ground wire on the bulb should connect to the chassis of the car.

Keep watching our blog for more posts on wiring the different outputs on your Infinitybox wiring system.  Click this link to contact our team with questions.


Here’s another cool feature that is built into our 10 and 20-Circuit Harness Kits.  We give you a very simple way to toggle between your headlights and high-beams.

In most cases, you have a separate input for your headlights and a separate input for your high-beams.  When the headlight input is grounded through the switch, the headlights turn on.  When the high-beam input is grounded, the high-beams turn on.  This link will take you to one of the most common headlight switches and a wiring diagram showing you how to connect it to your MASTERCELL inputs.

In some cases, the car may have a momentary switch as part of the steering column that is supposed to control the headlights and high-beams.  There are lots of kits out there that manage this but they are unnecessary with our 10 and 20-Circuit Kits.  We build that functionality in to the kits.  You simply need a momentary button to control your high-beams.

If you look at your configuration sheet, you’ll see an input that is called “Alternating Headlight Toggle”.  It does something pretty simple.  The input is designed to connect to a momentary switch.  The other side of the momentary switch should connect to ground.

If your headlights are on and you press and release this momentary switch, the headlights will turn off and your high-beams will turn on.   If you press and release the momentary switch again, the high-beams will turn off and your headlights will turn on.  Essentially, this switch will allow you to toggle between your headlights and high-beams.

Now, if you headlights are off and you press the switch, the high-beams will turn on.  This is for a flash-to-pass function.  Again, this is built into the system.  No external controllers or relays are required.

If you are using a newer OEM steering column, there is usually a switch that closes when you pull back on the turn-signal stalk.  You’d connect one side of this switch to the Alternating Headlight Toggle input on the MASTERCELL then ground the other side.

Both IDIDIT and Flaming River make great aftermarket columns.  They both have upgrade options that put a momentary button on the end of the turn-signal stalk.  You can connect that button to the Alternating Headlight Toggle input and get the same function.  You do not need their relay controllers to do this.

This link will take you to the Dimmer Switch option from IDIDIT.

This link will take you to the dimmer switch kit from Flaming River.  You do not need their relay and harness kit.

Contact our technical support team if you have questions about wiring your headlights and high-beams.